Te Koutu performing at Instituto Cultural de Oaxaca

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Trenta dias en Oaxaca

Caverna de Satana

Los Alumnos con nuestros Guia Luis

Aboala

 ¡Hola mis bonitos! Mi disculpa. It's been a while and a lot has happened here in Mexico.  We went up to Aboala where we clambered about in  ancient limestone caves where bats  and blind fruit trees lived symbiotically.  We swam under waterfalls of fresh spring water and heard strange tales about the old people who used to inhabit Aboala where all the people speak Mixtecan and for some it is there only language.  There we saw the face of satan petrified in the side of a cliff the same cave where the local people believed sprung the human race.

Guelaguetza

When we returned to Oaxaca we went out for a night of entertainment in Xoxochatlan (say that with a mouthful of peanuts). Where the entertainment was at both ends of the Amazing Spectrum. We listened to Las Reiñas Oaxaqueñas (The Queens of Oaxaca) for an hour and a half; truly a time I will never forget for pure and excruciatingly awful music they produced. They even had two encores much to our disbelief.  This was followed by a traditional Oaxaqueñan dance troupe which was startling in a completely paradoxical fashion. They danced many different dances in many different costumes; they smiled beautifully.  It was fantastic to watch.

Last weekend we visited Hierve de Agua a place very similar to the way the pink and white terraces used to be at Tarawera before 1889.  The pools were fed by an effervescent spring that leeched calciifed water into these two ponds.  Hard to believe you could find water in a more dry arid mountainous place. The Pools seem to drip down the mountainside like candle wax.

It has been a very busy few weeks.  Spanish classes continue.  The odd intestinal disorder occurs. Lots more Mexicans die in the Meso - American drug war. Tourists come and tourists go. We have arguments and the odd disgruntled student (or teacher) now and again. Hope you are well. Hx

Las Reiñas Oaxaqueñas

Hierve de Agua

Hierve de Agua

Carnaval Veracruz

¡Las Mujeres Bailan salsa!

¡El hobre no baila salsa bien!

Todos bailan

¡Hola mis compadres! Estamos en Veracruz por Carnaval, una fiesta muy incredibile, muy bonita y con muchas muchas personas.  We have been in Veracruz for 4 days. Each day a desfiles (parade) would wind its way down the foreshore in the late morning with salsa dancers in all manner of weird and wacky costumes and spectacular floats with beauties throwing gifts at us meandering along to the sounds of salsa music floating melifluously on the breeze while hundreds of thousands cheered them along. The defiles stretched for about 9kms. "What beauties mine eyes doth beholden!" Talk about sensory overload.  Each grupa completes the journey in about three hours takes a break for about 2-3hrs and then does it all again in the evening, all smiles and provocative poses.  On the first night we watched the whole desfiles pass then we went to the main stage where the stratospherically popular Don Omar was belting out his distinctive Mexican beats. We were too late to get in, the throng was incredible and overwhelming no one wanted to take the students into the mele (except for soft old Jaime). In the end we waited until the next night and salsa'd our way through the night.  We have blisters on our blisters and despite not touching a drop of alcohol for over a week I feel slightly hungover.  It has been  quite an extraordinary experience.

Veracruz es mucha alegra

¡Viva Veracruz! ¡Viva Mexico! un abrazo jaime x

¡ay ya yay!

¡Ahi es Veracruz!

j

Nuestros tiempos en Mitla

los alumnos van a entran subterraneamente en una toma de los muertos!

¡Hola mis famillia, mis amiogs! ?Como estan ustedes?

It has been a week since my last transmission and much has occurred in the world.  So many have died in Christchurch, so much destruction.  I found it funny how John Key expressed almost exactly my own sentiments – I can understand this happening in other countries but I can’t understand it happening in my own.  How arrogant and solipsistic and how human.

Speaking of solipsism, here we are in Oaxaca eeking out our lives in royal fashion;  yesterday we eeked our way to Mitlan where the Spanish conquistadors disassembled the ancient Mixteca citadel (built c. 100 b.c.) and used the rocks to construct the church San Pablo. They only pulled down some of the cidadel – much of it remains and descendants of both the Spanish and Mixtecas roam about enlightening semi-proficient Spanish speaking visitors of the various interesting architectural features.  All in all, we had a very pleasant morning spent wandering about these ruins, equalled only by the Tamarind and Guabana Sorbet I enjoyed afterward in the shade of a large gum tree while the sounds of parishioners chanting the Our Father in Spanish wofted lazily through the large church doors “Padre Nuestro, sanctificado sea tu nombre…”

Afterwards we wandered our way into a Fabrica Mezcal (a Mezcal Factory) where we were schooled in the ways of distilling very powerful alcohol from the cactus they call Agate.  Many of the students weren’t that keen on their Mezcal so it was left to some of the teachers to finish off the remainder.  They have a saying here “Para todos mal, Mezcal, para todos bien, tambien” – roughly translated means –for everying bad Mezcal, for everything good, the same.  Afterwards we went and had a nice lunch ate too much then went to the market at Tlacaloula - a rather elongated affair where the locals congregated to sell fruit and veg, meats, sombreros, pirated DVDs, clothes and a myriad of other miscellaneous accoutrements.  It was the first time I have ever seen someone impeccably dressed eating a fresh green salad on a butchers block next to a freshly butchered pig not far from the altar to Santa Maria de Gaudalupe where incense burned beside recently placed flowers.

Our students are really going great guns here.  Aside from their intensive Spanish lessons it is intended that they will complete their normal course of study as if they were in NZ.  This past week we have been preparing some writings for their Blogs. I have been impressed by the maturity of some of the work and it is great to read about the same experience through different eyes. Until next time. Mis queridos, voy a envio esta mensaje con muchos amores para ustedes. Jaime.

Santa Maria de Gaudalupe

Despite all my winged thoughts Blogs just don’t write themselves.  I have an excuse for my tardy typing: here in Oaxaca the days pass like minutes.  This week I have started teaching Te Reo Mäori classes.  I have been surprised at how diligent the kids have been (it helps when you’ve got the principal in the room).  Despite the four hours of intensive Spanish in the morning they seem remarkably fresh and attentive.  If only I could say the same for the teacher! By four in the afternoon my brain feels a bit like the second rate salsa verde I had for dinner last week – a watery liquid with very little substance. They are preparing some writings for their own blogs which we will develop later for a writing competition in NZ.  

Tonight, as I wandered home from the market through the zolcalo, there was so much going on. 

For a city the size of Wellington a weekday night feels more akin to a New Year’s eve party in Auckland. There was a Salsa event going on where old men wore wide brimmed hats and suspenders; their trousers freshly pressed matched their well polished shoes; they only looked slightly less elegant than their female companions. And how they danced – all rhythm and lightfootedness.  A few gringos were making a hash of it, but at least they were braver than I.  Lovers strolled about, occasionally stopping to engage in long passionate kisses.  This you also see in NZ on New Year’s eve (after a few drinks).  Vendors shrouded in balloon forests stood at the fringes, beside children playing chess with one another while wandering minstrels cranked out well worn Mexican favourites for tourists.  This Mexico is a marvellous place.

I hope all the whänau in NZ is well, my heart goes out to all those who are suffering in Canterbury at the moment. I have asked Santa Maria de Guadalupe and she agreed, so please know that she holds you in her heart. Much love. Jaime.

Los maestros en Oaxaca aka when teachers get mad

This is a picture taken yesterday in my street! (not by me!).  While we were in class the Mexican President arrived in town.  According to some, he crafted a deal that meant that private schools in Oaxaca state received more funding, while the public schools received nothing.  Enter angry maestros stage left! We didn't venture down to the Zocalo but it sounds like it was pretty intense.  This is what appeared on our school blog:

"These are the people in my neighbourhood, in my neighbourhood..."

This is to let parents know that Oaxaca experienced some troubles this morning upon the visit of the Mexican President. Many members of the Teachers' Union gathered in the town square to protest and the situation started to deteriorate. A reporter was badly shot in the leg and was taken to the hospital. Several others were also injured. The police used teargas to disperse the protestors".

Spot the difference - El Zocalo last night

In the Lonely Planet guide book it states that Mexico is a land of diversity. This is no truer than here in Oaxaca (see the 2 pictures of Zocalo below) Tonight I wondered down to near the Zocalo and they were having an evening of Salsa with a full band.  I enjoyed a snickers bar while wondering around with all the Oaxacuenean families strolling about.
La Escuela is getting pretty intense as well; today we had to learn about reflexive verbs (ecchhh). So you yourselves have a lovely evening while I take myself to the bathroom and me together with my teeth clean ourselves!
Here's a wee trabalenguas for you to try
(the "R" in spanish is rolled - r = erre)
R con r cigarro, r con r barill, rapido corren los carros, cargasdos de azucar al ferrocarril!

El Zocalo this evening (more or less)

Jaime x

La Primera Fin de Semana en Oaxaca

Large temple complex in main square of Monte Alban

!Hola Chicos! ¿Como estan? Sunday we went up to Monte Alban a large ancient city inhabited from about 500BC by Zapotecs (the local iwi) until about 700AD.  They were a pretty successful people controlling trade and agriculture in the the valleys below.  Below is a stone carving of a Danzate - a male dancer who performed before the locals after he had his genitalia removed and offered to the god of fertility.  They were normally pretty fat and ruled in competing tribes.

Tonight I wandered down to the Zocalo (the main square) for  a bit of a turn before bed.  It's Valentines Day and the place is jumping; like New Years Eve in Auckland without the drunks. Army trucks carrying armed soldiers driving around the city and machine gun toting men in doorways seem a little over the top.  Good to keep those emotions under control.  In 2006 the state govt had massive riots with the teachers over conditions.  The people protested for 6 months and lots of people died - not sure about joining the teachers union here.  

3 out of 4 looking cool in Monte Alban

Un Danzate

Ngä mihi ki a koutou katoa.

La cena con Senora Tico

La ama de casa - Senora Tico con un hombre muy guapo!

Un Tamale con tomate y queso

La comida no es la cosa primera en la vida, pero es casi la cosa primera! My spanish is still pretty awful but hopefully this says - food is not the most important thing in life but it is almost.  Here in Mexico and specifically in Oaxaca food is treated with the reverence it deserves and food and eating food occupies a central role in daily life (well in my life anyway).  I have been here in Oaxaca three days and I have yet to eat the same thing twice such is the variety of food available.  Above is some street food my host Senora Tico served me for cena (pronounced sena - a light snack served at night).  On the plate is a tamale a maize dough stuffed with frejoles (beans stewed with onion garlic and herbs) wrapped in a corn husk and baked or barbequed. The tamale is served with fresh tomato and ricotta like cheese. Es muy rico!  Senora Tico just keeps on bringing out these delicious dishes one after another. 

This afternoon in la escuela we learnt how to make Chaparuzzo - Hot Chocolate with a maize base. Quite delicious. You soak maize kearnels in water then mouli them into a 'milk'. Then boil the milk until it becomes thick like a beschamel sauces. Add some Oaxacan Cacao and boil  for a bit. Then drink - Delicious!

Dias uno en Oaxaca - Mi Compleano!

Chapaulinas

What a great way to spend your birthday - eating foods you've never eaten before (Chapaulinas) meeting people you've never met before; speaking a language you've barely spoken before.  Today has been full of new experiences, new tastes and new sights.  The day started with desayuno - Senora Tiko asked me if I wanted Desayuno Oaxaceno (breakfast of eggs scrambled with peppers and tomato) or Desayuno Gringo (cereal) - i went with the former; delicious! I cannot commend enough eating chilli three time a day despite what it does to your constitution.  La Scuela started at 8am with a spanish aptitude test; apparently I am not a fluent spanish speaker.  Our tauira (students) were very excited this morning and all had had a great first night with their new "Parents".  After scuela we all headed home for la comida - the main meal of the day - which started with a Chinese Pomegranate! followed by carrot and cilantro soup followed by a soy and beef stew with fresh cheese and tacos!  In the evening we wandered down to the Zocalo (the town square) and went througg the market where we tried out the local speciality - Chaupalinos (Grasshoppers) and then on to a Oaxaceno Chocolate Shop - aue! I'm now back at la casa di Senora Tiko about to enjoy cena with the whanau.  Senor Tiko's daughter also has her birthday on the 7th of Feb so they are having una Fiesta!

Hasta Luego

Hola Chicas!

Mexican Independence 1841

Timihou räua ko  Eruera outside museo

Aztec Lion

Archeological Dig

Cathedral Cosmopolitan

Maria

Performing at Embassy

Here we are in La Ciudad di Mexico (Mexico City)! 20+million people live here.  If you drew a line from Rotorua to Hamilton then to Taupo and then another line back to Rotorua you would have an approximation of the size the town; !ES INCREIBLE! We have been here three days it feels like three weeks.  Day one the kapa performed in front of the NZ Ambassador and her guests at her hotel (see below).  Day 2 We walked to the Zocalo where we walked around the beautiful gold encrusted Cathedral Cosmopolitan ( apparently Cortez - spanish conquistador - had to pull down a few indigenous pyramids to build it); Day 3 we have visited the Museo Nacional Archaeologica.  Ka mau te wehi! It has been quite an incredible experience travelling with our students and experiencing everything together, everything good and not so good.  One interesting fact you may not be aware of is that in Mexico you have to put your used toilet paper in a bin beside you because the pipes are a bit small. Makes for a different toileting experience.

Muchos Amor

Ko taku wähi noho

Ko taku waimarie ka noho au i te taha o Maria de Los Angelos, he wahine nö ngä atua!

Ko te wiki hei whakarite i a tätou mo Mexico

ko te wähi hoko i Oaxaca

Yacamo en Oaxaca

Tënä koutou, 

Ngä mihi nui ki te whänau o Te Koutu e whai ana i ngä tauira me ngä kaiako i a mätou e haere ana ki Mexico hei whakapakari i tö mätou reo Paniora.  He nui ngä mahi kua mahia e tënä whänau e tënä whänau hei tautoko mä te hunga nei.

Kei te hïkaka katoa ahau mö te haerenga nei.  Me kï pënei, kei te wiriwiri ngä pona i te whakaaro, arä, a kö ake nei e tae atu mätou i tëtahi wähi kë, ki tëtahi reo kë.  Kia kaha tätou ngä tauhou ki te reo Paniora!